Fish Tales -
Grilling seafood doesn't have to be a test of nerves

Published in the Savor Section of the Newark Star Ledger on Wednesday, June 20, 2007
By Beth D’Addono, for the Newark Star Ledger

Grilling fish can make even the most experienced grillmeister feel like he's swimming upstream.

The grill is too hot, it's not hot enough, the fish sticks, it flakes, it's not done, it's burnt, it falls through the grill onto the coals. It's the kind of fish story that makes you want to eat red meat.

But it doesn't have to be that way. Grilling fish is an ideal way to sear in juices and capture the true flavor of top of the catch seafood at its best. It just takes a little practice to get it right.

The benefits extend beyond all the healthy Omega-3 fatty acids you'll be eating. You also keep the kitchen cool, a huge benefit on swampy humid days. And grilling is quick. Get the prep down, and you can be grill- to- table in less than an hour, easily.

The right choice

Choosing the right fish is key, said Rich Vellante, executive chef and executive VP of Restaurants for Legal Seafood, the family-owned Boston-based seafooder with area locations in Short Hills and Paramus. "You want something dense, that doesn't fall apart easily," said Vellante. "That would rule out flounder, haddock and cod. Steak types of fish, fish with a good oil content, work great, like swordfish, tuna, mahi mahi, halibut and salmon."

The exception to this rule is another way to cook fish on the grill, en papillote (pah-pee-YOHT) style. This is the French term for cooking anything inside parchment paper. As the food bakes, it lets off steam, and is cooked from within. For the grill, aluminum foil stands in for parchment paper, and more delicate fish can be paired with herbs and veggies in individual little packs, usually spiked with a flavoring agent like white wine, citrus juice, coconut milk or soy sauce, depending on the recipe. A great alternative to baking in the oven, the grill imbues the fish with a hint of smokiness.

This works great for fish like sole, halibut, even flounder, varieties that would fizzle instead of sizzle if placed directly on the grill.

Another option, which works well with shrimp and chunks of meaty fish like swordfish or tuna, is seafood kebobs. Be sure to cut all ingredients evenly, and don't pack the seafood and veggies on the skewers too tightly, which prevents the heat from getting all around each piece to cook it thoroughly. You'll wind up with overcooked vegetables and undercooked fish.

Insist on freshness
When buying your fish, try to buy local and wild seafood, if at all possible. That way, you're not only supporting the local fishing industry, but also ensuring that you're not feeding your family the antibiotics and coloring agents said to be fed to some farmed fish.

Only buy from a fishmonger or store that is spotlessly clean, with all seafood iced and refrigerated. If you smell a fishy odor in the store, turn around and leave. Watch the employees -- are they wearing gloves? Are they keeping cleaned and uncleaned fish separate? Cross contamination in the cutting process can happen all too easily.

Once you get the fish home, keep it loosely wrapped in the coldest part of your refrigerator and plan on cooking it the same day.

Think whole
If you aren't grossed out by sight of a fish staring back at you, consider buying your seafood whole for grilling. Matt Pivnick, the executive chef at Gary's Wine & Marketplace in Madison and Bernardsville, grew up catching fish with his dad at the Shore. But like most families, fish was usually filleted, breaded and fried -- whether it was flounder or shark.

"Cooking fish whole guarantees moist and juicy fish," said Pivnick. "A fillet can dry out if you aren't careful with it. The collagen in the bones and the skin hold in the natural juices. And there's been less people handling the fish between when it was caught and when you bought it."

Whole fish offers endless variety. Possibilities include black bass, striped bass, blue fish, mackerel, sea bream, butter fish, black cod, porgies and red snapper. If you're intimidated at the idea of cooking a whole fish and you live near Gary's, Pivnick invites you to pick up the fish at your favorite market and come on down. "I'll walk you through the grilling process. Sometimes that's all it takes."

Be sure the fish is well cleaned and scaled before you get it home. Another advantage to cooking fish whole is you can eat the cheeks -- tender morsels of meat that are a true delicacy. If that mental image is too much for you... fillets may be the way to go.

Marinate, quickly

Marinating fish can pump up the flavor with ingredients like soy sauce, olive oil and white wine, and aromatics including scallions, garlic, fresh herbs and shallots. The key is not to over marinate, noted Bill Dorrier, executive chef at Due Terre Enoteca in Bernardsville. "Fish takes to marinade very well. Just don't use citrus, unless you want a ceviche affect. Use slices, or the rind or zest of citrus to impart great flavor. And you'll get the flavor you need in 30 to 45 minutes maximum."

Lube up
Take the fish out of the marinade, and wipe away most of the residue. Any fish you're putting on the grill needs to be lubricated with a neutral or extra-virgin olive oil so it won't stick.

Do this by hand by rubbing the fish down, inside and out. And be sure to salt and pepper the skin well, especially the side you put on the grill first. Be generous, as you'll lose some of the spice during the cooking process.

Prep the grill
Starting with a clean grill is a must. Be sure any past cooked-on residue is scraped and burned off. You'll also need to oil the grill. Do this by folding a paper towel into a small pad, dip it into oil, then, using tongs, rub it over the surface of the grill.

You can also lift off the grate and spray with vegetable oil -- just not into the flames, which will cause a dangerous flare up. This will prevent your fish from sticking, and deliver the kind of grill marks that prove you're a pro.

Two temperatures
Searing fish on a very hot grill is important for sealing in juices and flavor. Depending on the thickness of the fish, and whether it's whole or fillet, that might be all you need. But for whole fish, or thicker steaks, you'll need another less intense heat source to finish the job.

"If you're using charcoal, move some coals over to one side to give you different levels of heat," said Vellante. "For a gas grill, just adjust the heat so it's high on once side and medium on the other. That way, you can sear the fish, but not burn it, by moving it to the lower heat source to finish cooking."

Understand that all fish doesn't need to be cooked all the way through to be ready to it. Think tuna or salmon, which benefit from being served rare to medium rare. And remember that fish, like beef or pork, continues to cook when you take if off the grill. Let it rest for five minutes or so before serving to keep all the juices flowing.

Don't fuss
"People run into problems when they over manipulate the fish," said Dorrier, who loves to grill octopus along with just about any kind of fish. He suggests investing in a long, flexible fish spatula for ease of turning. "Give it a chance for the skin to sear and get between the flesh and the grill," he said. "If you fuss with it, you run the risk of the fish breaking up and you lose your grill marks."

The beauty of grilling fish is the flavor of the seafood is the star of the show. It can be paired with a sauce, or served simply with wedges of lemon and fresh veggies, which can also be prepared on the grill.

"People forget that their grill is just a heated surface. You can heat up a pan on the grill as easily as you can on a stove," said Pivnick. "Use a pan or flat cast iron cooking grill to get the vegetables going, or steam up some mussels and clams for an appetizer before you start grilling. The grill does all the work for you."